How to lay a gravel driveway

Video by B&Q. This guide is based on the popular "How to lay a gravel driveway" tutorial from B&Q, which covers the process clearly from excavation through to the finished surface. Their tips on keeping gravel contained at the edges are particularly useful if the drive runs close to a border or lawn.

1. Mark out the area and plan for drainage

String lines and pegs are your friends here. Mark the full extent of the driveway and check there is a natural fall away from the house — gravel drains well, but you still do not want water pooling at the front door. A fall of about 1 in 60 is fine.

Check whether your property has a soakaway or drainage channel the water can run into. If it runs into a public road, you may need a permeable surface or a drain — worth a quick call to your council to confirm before you start digging.

2. Excavate to the correct depth

For a lightly used driveway, excavate to around 150 mm below the finished surface level. For regular car use, go to 200 mm. Remove all topsoil and vegetation, including roots — anything organic left under the sub-base will eventually compact down and create hollows.

Hiring a skip for the spoil is the easiest option. A standard driveway produces more excavated material than most people expect.

3. Compact a Type 1 sub-base

Lay Type 1 crushed stone (also called MOT Type 1) to a depth of around 100 mm and compact it thoroughly with a plate compactor. You can hire one from a tool hire shop for a day — well worth it. A poorly compacted sub-base is the main reason gravel driveways develop ruts and dips.

Add the material in two passes rather than one: compact the first 50 mm, add the rest, and compact again. Takes longer. Much better result.

4. Fix edging restraints

Gravel migrates. It spreads onto lawns, into borders, and across pavements if you do not contain it properly. Plastic or metal driveway edging hammered into the sub-base works well and is cheap. Concrete kerb edging is more permanent and tidier for a front driveway.

Fix the edging before you lay the membrane or spread any gravel. Getting it right at this stage saves a lot of raking and retrieval later on.

5. Lay a weed-suppressing membrane

A heavy-duty woven polypropylene membrane laid over the sub-base does two things: suppresses weeds and holds the gravel separate from the sub-base. Overlap sheets by at least 200 mm and peg the edges down. Do not use the lightweight garden fleece type — it clogs, tears, and is not worth the time it takes to lay.

Cut the membrane around any manholes, drains, or inspection covers as you go. Trying to fit around them afterwards is awkward.

6. Spread and level the gravel

A depth of 40 mm to 50 mm of gravel is ideal — deep enough to feel solid underfoot but not so deep that it shifts with every step. 10 mm to 20 mm angular gravel (not round pea shingle) beds down better under vehicle tyres and does not travel as far when disturbed.

Spread with a rake and check the depth as you go with a straightedge. Take your time getting it level — a quick job here tends to produce a lumpy surface that looks less finished than it should.

7. Top up and maintain

Gravel driveways need an occasional top-up as the stone settles and some migrates over time. Raking it back from the edges every few months keeps it tidy. A leaf blower makes clearing autumn leaves much faster than hand-raking — just be careful at low settings or you will have gravel all over the garden.

When to call a handyman

Call Richard if the area is large, the excavation is beyond a basic dig, or you want the edging and grading done neatly first time. Laying a small parking bay or path top-up is very manageable as a DIY job; a full front driveway with drainage considerations is a bit more involved.