Inspired by a helpful YouTube guide. This walk-through is based on the popular UK video “Creating the Ultimate Kitchen Lighting Setup” from Charlie DIYte, which takes a proper look at how professional lighting designers think about kitchens and translates it into practical steps for a DIY install. The section on colour temperature choice alone is worth ten minutes of your time before you buy anything.
1. Plan your lighting zones
Under-cabinet strips are task lighting. They work best when they illuminate the full length of the worktop rather than just one run of units. Walk around your kitchen and decide which cabinet runs need covering — usually the main prep area and any areas near the hob.
Measure each run carefully. LED strips are sold by the metre and can be cut at marked intervals. Plan where the driver (the power supply) will sit and how the cable will reach it.
2. Choose the right LED strips
Colour temperature matters more than most people realise. Warm white (around 2700K–3000K) gives a cosy, relaxed feel. Cool white (4000K–5000K) is brighter and better for food prep. Daylight versions (5000K–6500K) are harsh in a kitchen. For most homes, 3000K hits the sweet spot.
For a plug-in setup, buy a kit with a driver and a remote. For a hardwired result, you need a low-voltage LED driver wired into a fused spur. The plug-in version is perfectly fine and is what most people go for.
3. Clean and degrease the cabinet undersides
The self-adhesive backing on LED strips does not stick well to greasy or dusty surfaces. Wipe down the underside of every cabinet with a degreaser or a cloth dampened with isopropyl alcohol. Let it dry completely before you start sticking anything.
Check the surface is flat enough for the strip to lie flush. On some cabinets with a slightly textured or painted finish, the adhesive alone will not hold long-term. Silicone adhesive or mounting clips give a more reliable fixing.
4. Mark out and test before committing
Run the strip along the underside loosely before peeling off the adhesive backing. Check it reaches where you need it to, that the cut points are in the right place, and that the connector cables reach the driver.
Plug it in and test it at this stage. Finding a fault now is much easier than after everything is stuck down and tidy.
5. Fix the strips in place
Peel back the adhesive slowly and press the strip firmly onto the cleaned surface, working from one end to the other. Press down along the full length rather than just at the ends — this helps the adhesive bond fully.
Position the strip back from the front edge of the cabinet by 30–50 mm. This way, the strip itself is not visible from normal standing height and you just see the light on the worktop rather than a line of LEDs at eye level.
6. Route and hide the cables
This is where the difference between a professional and a rushed job shows. Use small cable clips or self-adhesive cable channels to route the connecting cables up behind the cabinet and along the back wall.
If units are against a tiled wall, use small cable clips that can be stuck between tile grout lines. For painted walls, self-adhesive mini trunking painted to match is almost invisible. The goal is for nobody to notice the wiring at all.
7. Connect to power
For a plug-in setup, the driver simply goes into a socket inside a nearby cupboard. The cable comes out through a small drilled hole at the back of the unit. Run it to the driver and hide the driver inside the cupboard.
For hardwired installation, the driver needs to be connected to a fused spur by a qualified electrician. The result is neater, but it is not a job to do yourself unless you are confident with Part P electrical regulations.
8. Test and adjust the colour or dimming
Switch on and check the light is even along the full run. Hot spots or dark patches between strips usually mean a join has not been made properly. Most systems allow dimming via a controller — set it to a level that works for both prep and ambient use before finishing.
Live with it for a few days and adjust the colour temperature if the option is available. Getting it right makes a bigger difference to how the kitchen feels than almost any other change.
When to call a handyman
Richard can help with fitting the strips neatly, drilling holes through cabinet backs, routing cables, and arranging for hardwired installation where needed. The electrical connection side requires a registered electrician for a hardwired install.
Need electrical or fitting help in the kitchen?
The Sandwich Handyman can help with kitchen fittings, electrical work, and general improvements around your home in Sandwich, Kent.
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