Inspired by the Wickes how-to series. This guide draws on "How to Hang a Bathroom Cabinet with Wickes" from the official Wickes UK channel. It covers the whole job from choosing the height through to final levelling, and is especially useful on handling different wall types — which is where most bathroom cabinet jobs go sideways.
1. Decide on the height and position
Hold the cabinet up against the wall at different heights before you mark anything. A bathroom cabinet is usually positioned so the middle shelf sits at roughly eye level for the main user. Personal preference matters more than any set rule.
Check nothing is in the way behind the wall — use a pipe and cable detector before drilling. Bathrooms are full of hidden pipework running vertically and horizontally behind the tiles.
2. Mark the fixing holes accurately
Most bathroom cabinets fix to the wall with two or four screws through a back panel or hanging bracket. Hold the cabinet against the wall, check it is level with a spirit level, then mark through the fixing holes with a pencil or bradawl.
If the cabinet comes with a paper or card template, use it. It is there for a reason and saves a lot of marking-up time on a tiled wall.
3. Drill into tiles carefully
Tiles crack if you force a masonry bit straight in. Use a tile drill bit (or a sharp multi-material bit at low speed with no hammer) until you are through the glaze. Then switch to a masonry bit for the wall behind.
Stick masking tape over the mark before drilling if you are worried about slipping — it gives the bit something to grip and reduces the chance of the tile chipping.
4. Use the right wall plugs
Solid masonry walls take standard plastic plugs. Plasterboard walls need special hollow wall anchors or Snap-Toggle fixings — ordinary plugs will pull straight out under the weight of a loaded cabinet. Check your wall type before you buy fixings.
To be fair, most modern bathroom walls around a basin area are solid — brick or blockwork with tiles. But it is always worth checking, especially in newer properties where stud walls are common.
5. Fit the wall fixings
Tap the plugs home flush with the wall surface. Do not let them sink below the surface or the screws will not have enough to grip. Wipe away any tile dust before fitting the cabinet — even a small piece of grit caught between cabinet and tile can cause an annoying gap.
6. Hang the cabinet and check it is level
Hang the cabinet on its wall bracket or slide it over the fixings, then step back and check. Even if you marked it level, the act of drilling and plugging can shift things slightly. Most hanging brackets allow a small amount of adjustment — use it.
A cabinet that is off-level by even 2–3 mm looks visibly wonky. Take a moment to get it right before tightening everything down.
7. Secure and test
Once level, tighten all screws firmly. Open and close the door to check it hangs true and the catch works. Load it with a few items and check again — cabinets have a way of shifting when you add weight, especially on plasterboard walls.
When to call a handyman
Call Richard if the wall is tiled all over and you are not confident drilling into ceramic or porcelain, if the cabinet is large and heavy, or if you find unexpected pipework behind the wall. Getting it wrong here can mean cracked tiles or a flooded bathroom — either of which is a more expensive problem than the original job.
Need a bathroom cabinet fitted?
The Sandwich Handyman can fit bathroom cabinets, mirrors, shelving, and other bathroom fittings in Sandwich and across East Kent.
Contact Richard